Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Trim Castle, getting lost, Hilton Park

Day 3: We woke up to a light drizzle and the realization we would have to leave our comfortable B&B for the next part of our adventure. We all packed and headed downstairs for breakfast. This morning we all ordered poached eggs with bacon and a selection of toast, Brown bread, or freshly baked scones. We ate leisurely and chatted with Melanie, our hostesses assistant. She is from Hungary and taught English in primary school. Melanie faced many of the same challenges my teacher friends face in their classroom; cell phone usage, lack of respect, parents interfering and undermining her classroom rules. She said running the B&B was much easier and she really enjoys interacting with travelers from around the world.
After loading our luggage into the car, we headed up the street for a tour of Trim Castle. Trim is the largest Anglo-Normon castle in Ireland, and prior to restoration was used in the movie Braveheart. It was built in 3 stages with the goal of defense. It was rather uncomfortable to be in and move around. The stairs were extremely narrow, Allison had difficulty fitting her feet on the steps, and it ascended quickly with limited light. The views from the top of the castle were spectacular and you could see for kilometres. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and we felt that most of the guides probably had a degree in their field and then got jobs with the OPW (office of public works). We took one last jaunt around the city, loaded into the car, and took off with mom driving and me navigating.
Our route took us through Kells and we were able to stop at the monastery and took a walk through the tiny grounds. We easily spotted the round tower and the five high crosses. Then we found lunch, in a little cafe The Butterfly Garden. I had a lovely mushroom soup (so far all of the soups in Ireland have been flavorful without a ton of salt or cream), Allison enjoyed a tunamelt, and mom chicken curry with rice. We were easily tempted by the desserts and ordered  slice of lemon poppy seed and sticky toffee pudding. Back to the car we went and set out for Hilton Park, our next stop.
A funny thing occurs on the roads of Ireland, roads change names without nary a street sign...you might think one was driving down road 165 towards Clones when really the road was to Bailiesbourough. After were figured out we were way off the map Allison turned on our international data and summoned Siri to lead the way. An hour later we pulled into the most magical place I have ever stayed at (more magical then the Magic Kingdom).
 Hilton Park's land was purchased and a formal manor house built by Samuel Madden, and currently Fred Madden (the 9th generation to live in Hilton Park) and his wife Joanna run the luxuriously appointed historical home turned niche hotel. I was walking into Downton Abbey. Joanna, very pregnant with twins, enthusiastically greeted us out front and gave us a quick tour of the house while Fred delivered our luggage to our room (he thanked us for packing lightly). Joanna served formal afternoon tea with berry crumble, shortbread cookies, and a sponge cake filled with cream and berries in the Drawing Room. Fred's aunt, Lady Wolverton, joined us. We had a great time nibbling sipping and chatting with Francis who worked as a tour guide in Italy (her title came from her since divorced husband).
After tea we changed into more formal dining attire, and met Johnny (Fred's father, 8th generation to live at HP, and the genius who turned the home into luxury accommodations). Our discussion was quite spirited as we enlightened him on topics ranging from Obama, healthcare reform, the 101 freeway, and immigration. Dinner was called, Johnny departed, and the three of us entered the formal dining room to feast on a gourmet meal grown on property and prepared by Fred who previously was a celebrated chef in London.
Course 1: salad of ricotta stuffed squash blossoms, diced tomatoes, baby zucchini, thinly sliced beets, mint, basil, coriander and a balsamic dressing.
Course 2: lamb rump roast with caramelized baby carrots, purple snow peas, herbed New potatoes, mint vuerre bluc
Course 3: artisan cheeses, crackers and grapes.
Course 4: strawberry tart with lavender ice cream.
WOW, seriously good food. We followed the meal with tea, a warm crackling fire, and time to lounge and read our books. Mothers room had a enameled claw foot tub overlooking the soft rolling hills leading up to the property. We each took a long hot soak and then fell into a deep dreamy sleep.
Trim welcome center

On the castle tour



View from top of Trim

Funny Pringles dispenser

Round tower at Kells

Dining room at Hilton Park

Our smaller table

Course 1

Course 2


Course 4

Drawing room 1

Tea after dinner

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