Day 13: Today was an exciting day trip to Northern Ireland. We had to wake up early, eat breakfast, catch the LUAS, and walk deep into the heart of Dublin to meet our tour bus by 8am. This time when we purchased our tickets we made sure to select the return option so we didn't run into the same trouble as before.
Our bus was a brand new Mercedes-Benz that sat 19 people. The tour was booked, mostly with couples and 3 other families. Luckily they were also prompt so we loaded into our bus and took off for our journey prior to 8am. The first stop was an hour outside of Dublin at a "Greenapple" gas station-Burger King-Costa Coffee stop with loads of snacks and toilets. Most people grabbed a snack and a coffee. Our driver had a super meat breakfast sandwich and a cola. It wasn't very long until we were back on the road. Our guide/driver, Job, provided the bus with a crash course in Irish history, giving particular attention to James I and William of Orange and the origins of the conflicts between Catholics and Protestants.
As we crossed into Northern Ireland, Job confessed he normally has a CD of Irish tunes to play but the new vehicle doesn't come with a CD player so he said he would sing instead. And sing he did. Once into Belfast we went to the Republican museum in the Falls neighborhood which is all Catholic. It was an eerie way to start the day. It was less of a museum and more of a collection of newspapers, memorabilia, and personal items from members of the IRA. Next, Job drove us outside of Falls, around the peace walls, and into the gates to the Shankshill neighborhood where the Protestant's live. Union Jack flags flew from all of the light poles, bars were on Windows, and the peace wall was covered in graffiti with varying messages of peace and hate. The peace walls were extremely perplexing because they were not installed as an act of peace, but rather to keep the peace. During the height of the violence to enter the various neighborhoods one would need sufficient identification and the militia would decide if you could enter.
Next we drove through the center of Belfast, slowing down at various landmarks along the way. We continued towards the docks and the Titanic experience. While we didn't have enough time to take the tour, we were able to walk around outside, see where Titanic was built, and see from a distance the sound stages where "Game of Thrones" is filmed. We continued to the city centre and parked for lunch at city hall and had 90 to eat, shop, and wander. It was here that we had the worst meal of our trip. Our judgment lapsed momentarily and we forgot that Northern Ireland was.part of the UK, and the pub food was just awful. After sad fish and chips, and the worst excuse for a burger we stopped at Burger King for an ice cream cone. Our guide had recommended walking inside city hall, and it was grand. The plaster work was regal and the stained glass stunning.
The second half of our day began by heading to St Patrick's Cathedral and grave site. The church was lovely and had a most impressive organ. St Patrick's remains had been moved to the Abbey and in the 19th century a large stone slab placed on top. We followed his journey for a short period of time, stopped off at the educational center, and then drive to Castle Dundrum. This was my favorite part of the tour. The castle was in ruins but many of the walls were still up and stairs accessible. The views of the bay were breathtaking. We spent nearly and hour exploring and gawking at the view. Up next was a drive through the Mouhre mountains slowly making our way to Dublin. Along the way was more singing and joke telling by Job. It was an enjoyable day and we all agreed that we were happy we hadn't driven there ourselves.
When we arrived back to Dublin it was rush hour and the streets were packed with cars, busses, cyclists, and the sidewalks with people. Tired of the crowds and pushing groups of teens visiting Ireland for the summer in English immersion program, we made the decision to head towards the LUAS and have dinner outside of the city. Halfway between Dublin and where we were staying was a huge mall and outside dining terrace at Dundrum town center (a different Dundrum than from the castle we had visited earlier that day). There we so many options, but decided on comfort food and chose Milanos an Italian pizzeria similar to CPK but with thin Naples style crust. Our food was excellent and the waiter even better. He was happy to meet people from Los Angeles, he was from Mexico and moved to Ireland to pursue an acting career. Allison and I thought Ireland was a strange choice but he explained he was more interested in theater and there were not that many Latino actors here, whereas Los Angeles has thousands. Back to the cottage we went, looking forward to a hot shower and soft bed.
Peace Wall
Shankshill neighborhood
St Patrick's grave
St Patrick's church
The beautiful organ
Dundrum Castle
At the top of the turret
View from castle
Windows looking to the sea
Slit for archer to shoot out of
Narrow range
